SOLO ROADTRIP: TRAVELING ALONE IN PATAGONIA, CHILE
A quick rundown about my #roadtrip #adventure in #Patagonia, #Chile.
“Patagonia is one of those places that you can easily do a solo journey if you know how to drive and can speak some Spanish”
Arriving to Santiago Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport.
I flew into #Santiago from the United States and caught a connecting domestic flight to Punta Arenas the following day. At the Santiago Airport there is a perfect Holiday Inn ($144) that is literally in between the International & Domestic Terminals outside in a beautifully manicured courtyard. I tend to err on the side of expecting things to go wrong with my flights and try to arrive in a country, get my luggage, take a shower, eat dinner, have a good nights sleep and then continue on my journey the next day. I am pretty much always stress free because of this upon arrival.
If you choose to go into the city of #Santiago from the airport by taxi you will find a couple of booths before you exit the inside of the airport where taxi companies are located. You pay and order the taxi inside.
Basically, you tell the person where you are going at the booth, pay him, and then they give you a ticket. You walk outside with your ticket, find the company that matches your company, and a taxi is provided to you. The ticket is given to the driver so he know where you are going and that's it.
How I got to Patagonia, Chile.
The main locations to fly into Patagonia in Chile for your roadtrip are Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. I chose Punta Arenas because it was a larger airport and had more options for rental cars. It was a 3 1/2 hour flight with Latam Airlines. Flying into Puerto Arenas afforded me the ability to add tours to visit the penguins at Isla Magdalena in the Strait of Magellan.
When you leave the baggage claim and arrive at the rental car location in the Punta Arenas airport be forewarned that there is a good chance you will not see a sign for the company you are renting from. For instance, I rented from Hertz, yet no Hertz signs anywhere. Just walk up to the counter and they will inform you which company you should be with. I was with Mitta.
Driving in Patagonia is very simple.
Most of the roads are simple country roads and even the city roads in the southern regions are compared to a town in the States. You will have no troubles, traffic is orderly, and it's easy to figure out what is going on. I did not feel the need for a 4 wheel drive. I decided distance with gas was more important to me.
Gas stations have attendants. You do not gas up your own car. The attendant comes to your window, you tell him to fill it up, and that's about it. If they are a good attendant they will guide your eyes to see the pump is at zero when you start. Sometimes they clean your windows. They bring over the handheld machine to your window to pay. You are supposed to give them a small tip (500CP is perfect). Also, gas up whenever you see a place to fill up. There are no gas stations in Torres del Paine National Park.
Apps that I use to book stays while on the road.
I use apps while I am on the road to find places to stay. I mostly do not know where I am staying until the day I get there. I use booking.com and airbnb.com to book, but don't forget you will not have service inside of Torres del Paine National Park. Figure out where you might like to stay, screenshot the price, and when you walk in the lobby if they quote a higher price show the screenshot. They will honor it. Usually it is less expensive, but just in case have proof of the price you saw. Obviously during high season it is best to book. I just like the flexibility of never having to be anywhere.
Punta Arenas
I always go grocery shopping as one of the first things I do after getting my car. I fill up with water bottles, snacks, Tupperware (to pee in), and anything that I need if for some reason I am in between of locations for hours.
In Punta Arenas I went to the Unimarc Sur outside out of the main downtown. I find parking confusing and intimidating in a new country on the first day out of the airport. I enjoy shopping in a location that has a larger parking lot and no attendant and I do not have to figure out the system. When I have a couple of days under my belt driving I start getting better about understanding the system and have no problems in the main hub of a city.
I stayed at Hostal Keikruk ($54), but it might have shut down? This location was a perfect area and it came with parking. From my hostal I was able to walk to the staging area to catch the tour bus to the ferry for my penguin tour.
The CONAF website is great for information and I went to the Turismo Comapa office to buy my tour tickets in downtown Punta Arenas. The public ferry was not running when I was there.
Also check out Lord Lonsdale Shipwreck. It's right off the main road in town.
Driving from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales.
Driving fro Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales is an easy 3 hour drive and not very exciting. The views in my eyes are just regular views with long stretches of open road. I took Ruta 9 and I do not believe there is another option so you cannot get lost.
Puerto Natales
Puerto Natales is the gateway town before entering Torres del Paine National Park. Before entering the park make sure to purchase your ticket here at the aspticket for $35. I did not realize I was supposed to purchase a ticket and I was just lucky that I was able to get wifi. You cannot purchase a ticket at the entrance (might have had to do with COVID?) You will receive a QR code. Take a screenshot of it just in case your phone can't access your email.
In Puerto Natales stock up on everything you would like to have before entering the park, plus gas up your car. There are many gear rental locations so you do not have to pack everything for trekking. Trekking poles, boots, sleeping bags, anything you need is available to rent. I used Rental Natales. If Guillermo is still there his English is perfect and he is a wealth of knowledge and happy to answer all of your questions. Keep in mind that the items are used so do not expect new gear, you'd have to buy or bring your gear for new, lol.
I stayed outside of town at Cabañas Natales ($68) my first night because I wanted to stay at home, cook dinner, and relax. On my return trip I stayed at Weskar Lodge ($90) because they had a full service restaurant on site.
Heading into Torres del Paine
Rio Serrano Entrance/Portería Serrano
Take the Ruta 9 to the Y-290. This is the closest entrance to Puerto Natales. My recommendation is not to stay in the Rio Serrano location outside of the park entrance unless you do not plan to go in the park that day. It is outside the park entrance and your ticket will not get you in and out and in unless you buy the multiday pass. My understanding, might be wrong, is that once you're in, you are in, and you do not have to buy a multi day pass. I did not.
Lago Grey
Arriving through the Serrano entrance I suggest driving to Hotel Lago Grey ($150) and staying there. People who booked online ahead of time that I met paid in the $400's & I paid $150 walk up rate. If you're willing to chance it and possibly go somewhere else it might be an option for you to just walk up and see if you get a better rate as well.
There are hikes that are accessible from the lodge and you can also grab and book the tour boats to the glaciers from the hotel. I was just in Iceland and decided not to take the boat to the glacier because it was a windy cold day, but I did take multiple solo hikes around the area.
The rooms are beautiful and the restaurant is superb. Best breakfast buffet ever!
Mirador del Torres
I then headed over to the starting point for the Mirador del Torres hike and the O Trek and W Trek. I stayed in two different locations. I stayed at Hotel Las Torres ($239) and EcoCampPatagonia ($233).
I decided I did not to want to take the multi day trek because I wasn't sure of my fitness level and I don't like being the older single woman on a group trek with young people needing to push myself to keep up. (Turns out I'm just fine, lol, and that was my own made up self limiting belief).
Anyway, if you are comfortable with #hiking you DO NOT need a guide to do the day hike to the Mirador look out point. It is a difficult hike, but a very clear path. It is super trafficked and I was basically never alone with the amount of people on it. I was however the only person I saw solo hiking in 8 hours on the trail.
You can also do the multi day hikes without a guide, but the network of camping spot reservations seems hard to navigate and you must camp in designated areas.
My experience with weather in March, 2022
My experience with weather would be wind, wind, wind. Yes there were bitter cold moments and beautiful sun moments, but because of the wind all of the moments seemed to speed through on a constant changeable basis. I was never too cold, or wet, or hot, and I was always prepared for multiple climates in a day. The wind was intense and made hiking and driving difficult at moments. It is a place that I would say never let your guard down and just be mindful to be prepared. It truly feels rugged.
Santiago
I enjoyed my time in Santiago, but I also found there wasn't much for me to do in a tourist sense. I am not a museum goer or foodie or trinket shopping sort. I am more of the walk around a city type.
I found it a bit hard to navigate neighborhoods. I was told by locals that certain areas I should steer clear of. It was very hot when I was there and I felt myself getting overheated. The smog was the type you could see blanket the city from the plane and the beautiful photos of the mountains are from an era of the past, not a current reality.
I enjoyed my time, but could have easily just stayed two nights, not four. I did love walking through the Mercado Central and found the Providencia neighborhood fabulous to sit in outdoor cafes, stock up on shopping, and unwind after my Patagonian adventure. I also went up to the Cerro San Cristóbal viewpoint, but like I said smog makes it less than impressive right now, but go ahead and take the trolley up. It's worth not walking.
I stayed at Hotel Boutique Le Reve ($127) Don't ask me why, but there is no name on this hotel other than the two small papers in the front door. Also, the buzzer to get in is behind the bush on the left side of the entrance. Push the buzzer and wait to be buzzed in.
Wrap up
One short story. I was at an all inclusive place and I noticed that the server/barman kept ignoring me and not bringing me the appetizers or refills. I finally, after half an hour, asked if there was a reason I did not receive anything and if I was on a different package? He said, "oh are you not waiting on your partner?" I said, "I'm traveling alone." He said, "what about your guide?" Again, I explained I was alone. He profusely apologized, and I could tell that truly not many people travel through this region alone, so much so that it left the barmen confused, lol, and me starving.
All in all Patagonia is an epic adventure that I highly suggest as a solo trip. It is easy to navigate and I felt safe while being adventurous.
The only thing I would say is that it is hard to meet other people because it's a couples and group tour type of holiday. In my experience, I found myself being more of a confusion, than part of the scene, and it was not a swapping stories type of place and the more the merrier. It was exactly what one would expect, meaning rugged landscape and rugged people.
There is a reason for solo travel and it does include a solitary experience. Patagonia is one of those places that the journey fulfills that reason. It gives you everything you would expect and more.
Wow, thanks for all the info.